H&M, a leading global clothing retailer is planning to use digital clones of its models this year much to the displeasure of various stakeholders as the industry is still weighing AI’s potential and its impact on workers.

This comes as AI has been touted a game changer for various industries on the back of its transformative abilities. However, there are also fears of potential job losses as business automate processes.

H&M explores the idea of “digital twins” for its models

At H&M, which is one of the biggest clothing retailer in the world, revealed there are plans to turn to digital clones for fashion models. The fashion giant told CNN that it is planning to create 30 “digital twins” of its models this year.

The company is still exploring how to use the avatars once they are in place. According to CNN, the clothing retailer is collaborating with agencies, the models themselves as well as other industry stakeholders on the best ways to implement this initiative in a “responsible way.”

This initiative will allow models to own rights to their digital twin, “potentially work for any brand and get paid on each occasion just like any campaign production,” according to the fashion group.

Paul W. Fleming, the general secretary for the UK’s performing arts and entertainment trade Union Equity, welcomed the idea of paying models for their likeness. However, he also told CNN that this must be “backed by the widespread adoption of AI protections in union agreements and legislation that protects workers’ right.”

“Artificial intelligence would not be possible without human artistry and labour, and humans should remain at the center of creative endeavours.”

Fleming.

“The race to ‘innovate’ in the area of artificial intelligence must also not be a race to the bottom to increase profits,” he added.

Fashion industry expressed disgruntlement at H&M

Despite the promise to pay models for their avatars, the announcement has already ignited outrage and a backlash within the fashion industry as careers of many workers are already uncertain.

A model turned activist and New York-based non-profit organization Model Alliance founder, Sara Ziff indicated in a statement that she had “serious concerns about the use of digital replicas without meaningful protections in place.”

“In an industry that has historically been a backwater for workers’ rights, H&M’s new initiative raises critical questions about consent and compensation, and has the potential to replace a host of fashion workers including make-up artists, hair stylists, and other creative artists in our community.”

Ziff.

In 2023, Hollywood was plunged into turmoil as the Screen Actors Guild – American Federation of Television and Radio Artists (SAG-AFTRA) embarked on a strike from July 14 to November 9, against major studio and production companies over an array of grievances.

Among the key issues were compensation and use of AI to replicate actors’ likeness or voices without their consent or compensation in the film industry.

In the fashion industry, the use of digital twins is not unique to H&M alone as Levi Strauss & Co. has also explored the idea. The jeans-maker announced in 2023 that it was going to use AI generated models to “supplement human models.”

The company later clarified that “we are not scaling back our plans for live photo shoots,” after intense criticism.

In another case, Spanish brand Mango in July last year launched a campaign generated entirely by AI to promote a new collection of youth range.

In the meantime, influencers and models created by AI are becoming increasingly common. Last year there was the first ever AI beauty pageant.

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